Square Wines and Spirits in Long Island City established its first website in 2017 and was working on an upgrade in early 2020 when the pandemic shut down the economy. Liquor stores were declared essential businesses and allowed to remain open, but Square shut its doors, concerned about the health of its staff. “We had to completely change our business model, relying completely on our website and e-commerce,” recalled Joi Swepsin, general manager of the Queens shop. And it worked: Square was helped by a spike in liquor sales in the initial months of the coronavirus crisis and made it through the pandemic recession virtually unscathed. The same can’t be…